Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Yasuo "Mr Vacation" Fukuda

That's the current Prime Minister of Japan, in case you hadn't realised (at least he was when I wrote this blog..he might not be by the time you read it, given the rate they seem to change). He's off on his summer holiday today. It lasts until...Friday. Yup, he's taking 3 whole days off. And he's only 72, the lazy bugger. So the country is left leaderless. No change there then.

Incidentally, I heard recently that someone here who was due to retire soon has decided (or been persuaded) to stay on for a few more years. Several staff members have died since I've been here, but off the top of my head, I can't think of anyone who has actually retired normally. [In contrast, back in the UK, it seemed rare to actually make it through to retirement age - many more people in my lab had early retirements or voluntary redundancy than a standard retirement at the appropriate age.]

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Friday, June 13, 2008

Something Must be Done!

I suppose most of you will have heard of the multiple stabbing last week in Akihabara (an area of Tokyo). As it happens I was in Tokyo that day, but we didn't go there. Well obviously Something Must be Done, and there has been much talk of new laws against carrying knives. Never mind that the miscreant in question was already breaking existing laws (I mean before he deliberately drove his truck into people). In a startlingly bone-headed knee-jerk reaction, the first concrete action has just been announced: 'Pedestrian paradise' to be suspended in Akihabara. You see, every Sunday for the last 30+ years, the main road has been closed to traffic, and it makes it a much nicer place to visit, with ample room for the crowds to walk around (Ginza in central Tokyo is the same). So what better response could they give to a mass murderer who won't be wandering around Akihabara any time soon, other than to abolish this custom? Pure brilliance.

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Thursday, June 05, 2008

"A complete recording would make it difficult to establish the facts"

It's a funny world where politicians can say things like that without fear of public ridicule.

The politician in question is the Japanese justic minister, and the topic is the recording of interrogation sessions by the Japanese police in order that the courts can judge how "voluntary" the resulting confessions are. There is increasing pressure for this, as the public slowly wakes up to the standard operating practice of the judicial system here (such as 3 weeks in custody before any charges are laid, during which time the victim is treated to sleep deprivation and coercive interrogations aiming at a "confession" which - contrary to the letter of the law - is itself sufficient for a conviction even if subsequently withdrawn).

He is obviously worried by the plummeting conviction rate - down to 97.1% at the last count. This politician is the same moron who recently said he is in favour of the death penalty because the Japanese place much more importance on the value of life than the barbarian Westerners and that didn't get him laughed out of a job either. For that matter, neither did his boast that his friend knew a member of Al-Quaida who regularly visited Japan, and that he had advance knowledge of the Bali bombing but did nothing about it. [That latter story was easily debunked as the delusions of a fantasist, BTW.]

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Friday, May 30, 2008

Coming out of the closet?

There is surely less to this story than meets the eye. I reckon she just took a wrong turning on the way home one day and didn't realise she had ended up in someone else's walk-in wardrobe.

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Sunday, May 11, 2008

This is a local hospital for local people - there's nothing for you here.

This is an ugly story which I heard on the grapevine, and which is unlikely to feature in the Japanese press (unlikely to be made into a bizarre comedy either). Recently someone here in Japan needed some medical treatment, so they found an official web-site listing local hospitals with English-speaking staff, and when they tried to go there, they were refused on the grounds of nationality - the head doctor had simply decided they were going to stop taking any foreigners! It was not an urgent case, and they found treatment elsewhere, but it's still a rather shocking reminder of how this sort of bigotry is casually accepted at all levels in society here. They may be desperate for foreign tourists to come and spend their money here, and for "guest workers" to come to prop up their economy (so long as they don't get big ideas about settling here, and go home after a few years), but a large proportion don't actually think foreigners are human, and a "foreigners not welcome" attitude, although thankfully rare (except when renting accommodation, where it is the rule rather than the exception) is still considered quite acceptable.

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Kerosene-soaked man catches fire after trying to smoke at Nagoya police station

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Green Day

Today is "Green Day" (actually, I just found out that Green Day was moved to the 4th May as of last year, and the 29th April is now called Showa Day after a previous Emperor, but the trees didn't get the memo). Japan is good at green, in fact at this time of year it is luminously, luridly, effulgently, almost virulently green with the fresh leaves brightly lit up by the increasingly powerful sun. This picture from our walk today certainly doesn't do the scene justice, but I hope you get the idea. This was taken half-way up the hill to Hansobo out the back of Kenchoji (or rather half-way down the hill to Kenchoji, on the route we took).

Some of the greenery is red, of course. I left a touch of green in the next picture to prove this wasn't taken last autumn. It's a more ornamental variety of Japanese maple, this one in Zuisenji a few days ago.



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Wednesday, April 16, 2008

The uniquely unique uniqueness of Japan

A review of "Japan through the looking glass" by Alan Macfarlane.

We heard the author as a guest on late night Radio 5 last year, talking about his new book, which sounded interesting. So we got it for Christmas. He's a professor at Cambridge University in cultural anthropology who has visited Japan extensively, so we were looking forward to finding out if he could provide any insight to help us make sense of our experiences - or whether conversely, he wouldn't be able to tell us anything we didn't already know. Perhaps most importantly, would he explain the Japanese approach to scientific research?

The author has not lived here for any extended period of time, and does not speak the language, so was highly reliant on the various contacts he had during his visits (which have mostly been stays at a number of Japanese universities). This unfortunately shines though his writing in some places, and made us wonder who was really writing the book, and for whom. For example, he starts on an unfortunate note by quoting a judge who explains that the reason they take so long over their legal decisions is that the Japanese take a nuanced view of things, life is not black and white. However this can hardly be reconciled with the 99% conviction rate, whether or not one accepts the claims that only the guilty are brought to trial. Indeed to anyone who has followed any of the dubious high profile cases here it seems much more plausible that the lengthy delays are caused by the judges agonizing over just how brazen they can be in discounting any evidence of innocence on the flimsiest of pretexts. There are plenty of other places where the book reads like the Japanese intelligentsia explaining away Japan's less admirable qualities, like when he talks about the "separate but equal" status of women here (no, he doesn't actually use those words, but might as well have done).

There are some well-made points: the way that the Japanese have imported all sorts of Western ideas but completely gutted the essential nature of them, often apparently without even realising that they have done so. For example, their "democracy" in which everyone dutifully goes out and votes for the governing party every few years (a year ago, the opposition actually got a majority of the vote in some elections for the upper house, which panicked them into proposing a merger with the govt). But as for his comments about consultation and "nemawashi", he is either very wrong, or JAMSTEC is a particularly unusual employer! Again, it is easy to envisage some academics talking about the process of "consultation" and consensus-building without perhaps realising what a complete sham the process is, compared to (say) the UK system where the workers do actually have some teeth (backed up by legal force and due process). For example, we have a "worker's representative" here, who is proposed by the management, elected in an unopposed public ballot ("sign here if you approve"), and who dutifully sits through "consultation" meetings in which he is told what the management have decided to do. I asked a colleague about this process, and she said she did not even know who he was but had voted for him anyway...but I'm supposed to be talking about the book, not my own petty grumbles.

A major focus of the book is how Japan's society seems inside-out from the Western perspective, but nevertheless seems to work just as well. Some of his examples reinforce our own experiences, but others seem rather flimsily supported, based on nothing more than an anecdote. Although I'm no great expert, I think his comments about Japanese language are as often wrong as right. Among the latter, I'd noticed myself soon after arriving that my dictionary translates "kenri" as "right, privilege" and that the Japanese appear to have no clear concept of the difference between the two terms (which directly feeds into their understanding - or otherwise - of human rights). But contrary to another of his assertions, it is easy, and indeed common, to communicate in an equal-status manner - and the range of relationships considered "equal status" can be rather broad - although some relationships like staff-customer do invariably use status-laden language.

The underlying theme that runs like a coal seam through the book concerns the tribal nature of society here. I'm not sure how much of this is a synthesis of other writers versus his own analysis. Probably everything has been said before: the skill may be in drawing out the important and useful bits. But anyway, perhaps the cornerstone of his analysis is that (due to its isolation) Japan never went through an Axial age, at which time (elsewhere in the world) the human sphere started to be considered as separate system from the natural world - and therefore subject to separate ethical rules, initially religious, perhaps now more secular but still moral and prescriptive in nature. Hence no "human rights", and no separation between mankind and nature. Society is still an undivided whole, and laws are more of a guidance for social cohesion, than a rigid structure based on assumed principles. We (or rather, the Japanese) are all part of the same compost heap, with their existence defined only via their relationships to others, rather than in themselves as human beings. Mind you, AA Gill said much the same thing in a rather cruel but very funny article many years ago: "a Japanese man by himself doesn't think he exists."

As for what else we learnt, or at least came to accept and understand more fully: the Japanese won't change, at least not in the ways that we would like them to. We'd actually got that far by ourselves, but the reasons behind that make more sense to us now, as do various minor events that have happened during our stay here. Ultimately it's hard not to feel sorry for them, trapped in their individually helpless situations, where life is something that happens to them while they don't even bother making other plans. But I have to admit that most of them seem happy enough with it (or maybe resigned would be a better term), and on a practical level, life runs very smoothly.

A paragraph right near the end is worth quoting in full:

It is difficult for me to tell whether I am attracted or repelled by Japan; indeed most outsiders who know Japan feel both these emotions. At times it all seems so beautiful, meaningful, attractive, a return to paradise, Eden, childhood and security. It fulfils the romantic longing for a lost world, Paradise, Atlantis, the Lands of the Grail, fairylands forlorn. Then when one awakes from the dream, Japan seems a savage, childish, conformist and aggressive land, clogging, sticky, regressive, a trap, a siren song leading to shipwreck for the Enlightenment and reason. Japan is full of hybrids, ambiguities, full of attraction and repulsion simultaneously, absorbing people and also rejecting them.

I see that the Amazon page now has 4 reviews: two think it is is wonderfully evocative and fascinating, one thinks it's too academic, and one says "I'm the only gaijin in the village". That's probably a fair mix of opinions.

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Saturday, April 05, 2008

Cherry blossom in Kamakura (again)

It's that time of year again. And this time we are (unusually) not rushing to or from any conferences so are able to make the most of it. I'm not sure if the cherries are really particularly good or if it's just that we are not in so much of a rush.



Yesterday we walked into town early in the morning to catch a train to Tokyo to attend a set of presentations from an INQUA committee, so we got to see central Kamakura at its quietest and most beautiful (most days we cycle and miss the town centre). I think the real reason for their trip was to meet with the equivalent Japanese organisation. They chose a good time of year for it!



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Monday, March 24, 2008

I'm metabo - so what!

"Metabolic Syndrome" seems to be medical speak for what used to be "fat". I wonder how long it will be before the pharmaceutical industry invents a new syndrome (and the treatment to go with it) for the state of having no identifiable disease.

The title of this post is (the translation of) a new book by some Japanese person who argues that being a little overweight is nothing to be worried about. But "metabolic syndrome" seems to be all the rage here, eg our canteen has lots of notices about "metabo" on the tables among the general info on health and diet. The Govt is now apparently jumping on the bandwagon, adding a "metabo test" to the annual health check that all employees have to undertake each year, and even threatening to fine companies that have too many fat people. The real issue behind this is healthcare costs and productivity, of course. Notwithstanding that the obesity level here is way behind the west, it is increasing at quite a rate.

So what is this "metabo test"? It appears to be mostly based on a simple waist measurement, with a threshold of 85cm (33.5") to mark the "at risk" population (for women it's 90cm/35.5"). While this has the advantage of simplicity and economy, it can hardly be a reliable measure - I'm on the wrong side of it (after a big meal, at least)!

As I mentioned, we already have an annual health check, which has in the past generated the risible result of some flabby wheezing pot-bellied man in a white coat trying to tick me off for gaining a kilogramme over the year, and advising me to try to get out for a brief stroll at lunchtime. Since I already cycle to and from work most days (a hilly 40 minute ride in each direction) I mentally placed his advice in the circular file where it belonged. I'm lighter now than 15 years ago when I was mostly rowing (and pretending to be a student) and frankly a bigger problem is maintaining a healthy weight on Japanese-sized portions (hence the occasional chicken binge, or more likely visit to the local curry). So I am amused by the thought that some wheezing flabby man in a white coat may tell me I'm at risk from "metabo", or that the Govt may fine JAMSTEC for not looking after me properly.

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Sunday, March 23, 2008

The £15 chicken

Today being Easter, we thought we should have a proper meal. Actually I've been cooking more frequently recently, now I've worked out where the edible food is and how it's packaged (a wander round a Japanese supermarket is a powerful appetite suppressant). But that's another story.

A month or two ago there was a minor kerfuffle in the UK press about the "£2.50 chicken". Various TV celebrity chefs were apparently upset that poor people could afford food that was considered a luxury a few decades back, and said the price should be significantly higher. Tesco promptly responded by dropping their price to £1.99.

Anyway, yesterday I scoured the shelves of the local supermarkets, and found one single solitary lonely chicken for the princely sum of ¥3000 - that is about $30 or £15 in real money!

OK, I realise that the celebs were focussing on animal welfare, and there is probably a genuine debate to be had on that topic, but I don't think that price alone is a good indicator of welfare standards. Given what I have seen of their treatment of pets, let alone how they treat cuddly friendly whales, I very much doubt that Japanese animal welfare standards are that much higher than those in the UK. Instead, the high price is due to Japan being only about 40% self-sufficient in food, and imposing punitive taxes on imports.

Still, it was very tasty. Happy Easter!

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Saturday, March 01, 2008

Statistic of the day

National PopulationPrison PopulationPrisoners per 100,000 population
Texas25m172,000688
Japan125m47,00038

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Sunday, January 27, 2008

Sumo final day

This is about as good as sumo gets...the final bout on the final day, both wrestlers are on 13-1 records and fighting for the title:



On the right is Asashouryuu, the "bad boy" of sumo, who was the sole Yokozuna (top rank) for some time, but who has been banned for the last couple of competitions. On the left is Hakuho, who has won in Asa's absence, and as a result was also promoted to Yokozuna.

And you thought it was just two fat men trying to give each other wedgies.

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How many policemen does it take to apprehend a lone suspect?

2,240 police, 460 patrol cars, and a helicopter

- that is, if the policemen are Japanese and their target is suspected of the heinous crime of assaulting a police officer. Japanprobe has a video of the aftermath.

Actually, on reading the fine details, they did not actually apprehend the man at all, he simply crashed his car into a bridge support. Meanwhile, a 15yo schoolgirl in Saitama did more for crime prevention with one well-aimed kick than a battalion of Osaka's finest could manage.

My tax yen at work...still, when they are doing this, they aren't harrassing people for cycling while gaijin.

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Thursday, January 24, 2008

Justice, Japan-style

I've mentioned the scary state of the Japanese legal system before. Here's another lovely story of an obvious stitch-up, where a foreign resident was locked up for a few days on nothing more than the word of a deranged taxi-driver. And it's not over yet, he faces the possibility of a year in prison (more likely, he'll have to pay a few million yen in "compensation", which may be what the taxi-driver was planning in the first place, only he seems too mad to have had a plan). Arbitrary detention without basic legal rights (such as access to a lawyer) is the sort of thing I expect of tin-pot 3rd-world dictatorships, not a supposedly modern liberal democracy (well one out of three ain't bad).

We had our own run-in with a mad driver several years ago. He tried to drive his large truck straight through the middle of our tandem (turning left on setting off at a traffic-light controlled junction). In response to a slap on the wing-mirror from jules (which nudged it out of position, but fortunately did no damage) he went ballistic. Fortunately the police calmed everything down and just made us all apologise to each other. If I'd known then the risk I was taking, I might have made more effort to escape before they arrived.

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Monday, January 21, 2008

Never believe anything until it's been officially denied

"Declines in Tokyo stock prices do not mirror Japan's economic health, senior government officials said Monday after the key Nikkei stock index lost more than 3% from late last week.

'Current stock prices are mainly due to speculative moves by foreign investors,' Takao Kitabata, vice minister of economy, trade and industry, told reporters. 'I do not believe the prices are reflecting the Japanese economy's actual strength.'"
So what else could it be? Here's his explanation:
Kitabata, the top bureaucrat at the ministry, said he believes the slump is running in tandem with a recent rise in the value of the Japanese currency, which has created an environment encouraging foreign investors to take profits on the Japanese stocks they hold.
Yeah right. Strong yen. When we came here, there were about ¥170 to the UK pound. Now it's about ¥210. I suppose you could try to call the yen strong if you were a USAian in deep denial about the complete and utter collapse of the dollar :-)

Maybe I've been watching too much "Yes Minister". But maybe I'm right to be suspicious.

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Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Can you speak Japanese?

Funny how these things come in a bunch.

I've already posted about these vague proposals JT about revamping the visa requirements for Japan, including language skills testing.

Now a similar sort of idea has popped up again, but there's still no sign that anyone has actually thought it through. Before anyone jumps to the wrong conclusion, let me say at the outset that of course it is not unreasonable to impose some sort of language requirement on permanent residents and citizenship applications. These people are (in principle) here to stay as members of Japanese society. There already are de facto requirements, if not exactly de jure, in the form of paperwork and a face to face interview (no interpreter allowed!). Exceptions are only made for mass murderers on the Interpol wanted list (eg), and I don't want to stay here that badly.

It's not really clear what is being considered - there is no such thing as a "long term visa" anyway, with most categories limited to 3y. And obviously it would be a complete non-starter to hope that foreign professionals or wannabe English language teachers would take Japanese lessons just on the off chance that they might get offered a short contract here at some point in the future.

So I am still waiting with interest to see what concrete proposals, if any, actually see the light of day.

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Monday, January 14, 2008

Can you read Japanese?

It's a question I'm occasionally asked. Well, more often, it's a sort of disbelieving "you can't really read Japanese, can you?" when I have deciphered something as complex as the sign outside a toilet (hint for visitors: men are typically blue and have trousers, women are pink and have a skirt).

OK, I can do a little better than that. But I certainly can't read a Japanese newspaper, because it's got far too many kanji I don't know. However, Mr X (whose name I actually know, but he wants to remain anonymous) is rather more capable than me. In principle, he could read a newspaper...were it not for the minor detail that his local newspaper company refuses to sell to foreigners! As you can see from the comments on that post, this is not even a one-off that could be put down to a bizarre accident, but has happened to other people with other newspapers.

I suppose it's possible that the newspaper companies are so embarrassed at the xenophobic nonsense and toadying to the Establishment that they print that they don't want the outside world to see it (I've remarked before on how the English translations presented on their web sites sometimes diverge markedly from the original text provided to the natives). But on balance it seems more likely that this is just another symptom of the unthinking exclusionism that is rife in Japanese society.

Call me a cultural imperialist if you want, but there's got to be something seriously screwed up about a country where their concept of "human rights" means that arbitrarily refusing to sell to a foreigner is A-OK, but sticking up a poster in a train advertising a traditional festival, which happens to show a bit of chest hair, is considered "sexual harassment". For the record, Japanese trains are routinely plastered with pictures of juvenile "swimsuit models" in pouting poses. I wonder what the dirty old men who run Japan would think if a few women (or even schoolchildren or their parents) said they didn't want to see that?

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Saturday, January 12, 2008

Just do it

This story has has surprisingly little coverage IMO, considering how significant it could be:
"The [Japanese] government will aim for 30 percent of all households to have solar panels installed by 2030"
That's 40 million people. Japan is already one of the world-leaders in this area, at about 1% household coverage. 30% is a lot. Japan is blessed with a lot of sun, but is otherwise short of energy resources. Their nuclear power industry is large but the climate for that isn't great, so the country is heavily reliant on imported oil and likely to remain so for some time. We are also right at the limit of generation capacity here, with official Govt advice (eg on air-con use) aimed at cutting peak demand in the summer. So obviously promoting solar power could brings substantial benefits both in energy security, and avoiding new power station construction. Of course the massive cash injection into research will also cement Japan's position as the world's leading producer. I'm not sure if I've written it before, but I've long thought that one of the best reasons for increased investment in renewable technology is to get at the forefront of the technological advances. It hardly takes a genius to see which way the wind is blowing on this in the medium term.

IMO spinning this policy as primarily a global-warming issue is probably as much political convenience as hard reality. The Japanese happily pay massively inflated food prices on the grounds of food security (probably that's got a lot to do with buying the support of the agricultural sector), so it is hard to see them objecting at support for energy security too, if it was presented in those terms. But doing something about emissions certainly makes you one of the "good guys" internationally.

Either way, I hope it's the sort of action that people at all positions in the spectrum can agree is a good thing. OK, maybe hard-line libertarians could argue that the Govt spending taxpayers' money is less efficient than the private sector doing it by themselves. But compared to (say) wasting trillions of dollars on an unwinnable war in the Middle East in the vain hope of securing a couple more decades of affordable oil, it's hard to argue that the Japanese approach to energy policy is worse!

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Thursday, January 03, 2008

Ratty New Year

As I've mentioned before, the Japanese New Year is centred on mochi roulette with a spot of kamikaze mountaineering.

This year was no exception, sadly.

Actually, most people laze around for a week eating and drinking too much, but that is too mundane to blog about.

Much of the motivation for the winter mountaineering seems to be the desire to see the first sunrise of the year from a summit (and best of all, from the top of Fuji) but we don't have the necessary genetic inheritance for that particular foible and settled on visiting a mountain called Hinode (sunrise). It's the thought that counts, after all. We didn't even go on the first, but waited until yesterday. We did get up before sunrise if that helps.


Behind jules, the neighbouring mountain of Mitake-san has a little village on top. It has a shrine, hotels, shops and restaurants, some roads and even a fire station. Curious thing is...the road does not connect down to the bottom of the valley, so presumably all the vehicles are carried up and down on the cable car! Needless to say, we walked, and earned our reward of a soak in the onsen near the train station at the end.

Curiously, just like two years ago when we met a dog right at the start of the year of the dog, we saw some rats at the start of the year of the rat. I'd better leave before the year of the dragon!

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